Little Rogue

This is not my pattern, but rather heavy mods to make it a toddler hoddie from an adult one. However, by the time i am done it might feel like my own.
Heere is the original pattern:
Designer's page
Ravelry page

Mods:

Making it to fit a 3 year old - 5? (25 inch chest)

Cast on 114 sts (57 sts per side). Place marker. Join in the round.
Knit in 1x1 rib for 8 rnds. Place second marker after 57 sts.
Purl one round (hem turning round).
Start knitting, and start of row 1 for Chart A
Attach pocket at the rnd 10 (rnds are counted  after the hem turning round) as follows:

Knit row 10 of ChartA, knit 6 sts, don't break the working yarn. With a new ball of yarn attached knit next 30 sts - those are the start of the pocket. Rest of the pocket is knitted like in the original design for 20 rows (row 4 is like row 6&8, ie not a decrease one like in the original). Pocket goes from 30 sts to 20 sts.

Sprite

Now that my daughter is going to a daycare, i have been thinking in terms of practical, yet very cute clothes for her. Vests seem to be a good option for the fall. I have sketched down and wrote up patterns for 4 of those. This one is the first i am test knitting/making for my daughter (size 3-4T). Pink tunic is in size 1-2T (but the length is as in 3-4T). The vest is currently worked out in 4 sizes i am listing bellow. I might also add smaller or bigger sizes depends on the response i get.

Sizes available:

1-2T (19-21"chest)
2-3T(20-22" chest)
3-4T(22-24" chest) shown here in green
4-6T(24-26" chest) - will be test knitted by Cassie

Pattern description:

The vest is knitted in the round from waist up to the underarms. Then the work is split into 2 pieces. The back and front are knitted identically. Then the shoulders are joined via graft or 3 needles bind off. The stitches than picked up from the waist and knitted in the round down to the hemline. Several options are given: the vest can be worked either in one color or in 2 colors (use your imagination here!). I am providing my 2 color option here. I am also giving 3 different option for the hem, but once again let your imagination guide you here as well. "Sprite" can be knitted in different lengths to be either a vest/tunic or dress. The instructions here are given for the tunic length.

Gauge:
24 sts to 3.25 inches in the honeycomb pattern or
21 sts to 4 inches in stockinette stitch in the round


Materials:

I will recommend to use wool yarn with bounce and good stitch definition as we are talking cables here :p
My yarn recommendations: Zara from Filatura di Crosa, Drops Extra fine Merino, Extra fine Merino DK from Berroco (just to give an idea, but not to limit to)

3, 4, 4, 5 balls of any dk wool (125 yards per ball). I have used Zara.
And if you are going to work with 2 colors then 1 ball of the contrast color yarn
3 mm circular needles (60 cm length or 24")
4 mm circular needles (60 cm and 80 cm)
2 stitch holders
2 different color stitch markers
Decorative buttons if you want to use any.

Abbreviations:

kfb = knit into the front and back of the stitch
pbf = purl into the back and front of the stitch
C3B = slip 3 stitches on holder and hold to the back, knit next 3 sts, then knit 3 from holder
C3F = slip 3 stitches on holder and hold at the front, knit next 3 sts, then knit 3 from holder
C2B = slip 2 stitches on holder and hold to the back
C1F = slip 1 stitch on holder and hold to the front
1x1 rib = *knit 1, purl 1*
ssk = slip 1 st knit wise, knit next one, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
yo= yarn over needle

Method:

Since we need live stitches, then you can use one of the following two methods to cast on:

1. Provisional cast on: using a crochet hook make a chain of #of stitches for your size + 10. Then pick up stitches from the chain.
2. Cast on the number of stitches you need in scrap yarn, then switch to main yarn and knit a row, joining in the round at the end.

With either method, using 3 mm needles pick up or knit 124 (136, 148, 156) sts. Place marker, join in the round.
Then with the main yarn, knit a round and place a second marker after 62 (68, 74, 78) sts to mark middle of the work. Latter both markers will be used to separate front and back.
Knit 8 (10, 10, 12) rnds in 1x1 rib.
The 2 color option shown here (knit 1 round in main color, then 1 rnd in contrast color, etc, finishing with main color).
Switch to bigger needles. Knit this round and evenly increase by 20 (20, 20, 24 sts), ie kfb into every 6-7th stitch or so. So that you have 144 (156, 168, 180) sts.

Start Honeycomb Pattern:

Rnd 1-4: p2, *k2, p4*. Repeat * till last 4 sts, k2, p2
Rnd 5: C2B, k1, purl 2 from holder, *C1F, p2, knit 1 from holder, C2B, k1, p2 from holder*. Repeat * till last 3 sts, C1F, p2, knit 1 from holder
Rnd 6-10: k1, *p4, k2*. Repeat * till last 5 sts, p4, k1
Rnd 11: C1F, p2, k1 from holder, *C2B, k1, p2 from holder, C1F, p2, k1 from holder*. Repeat * till last 3 sts, C2B, k1, p2 from holder
Rnd 12: as Rnd1

On Rnd 12, knit in pattern to last 6 sts. Bind them off purl wise. Remove the marker, and bind off 6 more sts purl wise(ie 12 sts bound off).

Starting new round count.
Rnd1: Knit in pattern (rnd 1 of honeycomb) to 6 sts before the second marker, bind them off purl wise, remove marker and bind off 6 more sts purl wise(another 12 sts bound off), knit in pattern to the end of the round.
From now on both front and back will be knitted separately and identically. Total number of stitches for each piece now should be 60 (66, 72, 78) sts.

Note (read! it is important): Follow the established cable pattern, only this time it is knitted not in the round, but in rows. One thing to keep in mind, there will always be 5 rows in between each cable crossing. The example of how to knit on the wrong side is given bellow as Row2. Also when working decreases and cable at the same time, only do cable crossings if it is within the honeycomb pattern. If you are a stitch short, then just either purl or knit unpaired stitches however they appear.

The rest of the instructions are given row by row for more clarity.

Front:

Row 2 (WS): Knit first 2 sts, purl all the purl stitches and knit all the knit stitches to the last 2 sts, knit 2. This will apply to every wrong side row.
Row 3 (RS): k2, ssk, *pattern* to last 4 stitches, k2tog, k2.
Row 5: k2, ssk, *pattern* to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Row 7: k2, ssk, *pattern* to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Row 9: k2, ssk, *pattern* to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2 (8 sts have been decreased, 4 on each side)
Total stitch count at this point is 52 (58, 64, 70) sts.

For sizes 1-2T and 2-3T only:


Row 11: k2, *pattern*, k2.
Row 13: k2, *pattern*, k2.
Row 15: go to Row19 and continue from there

For size 3-4T and 4-6T only:

Row 11: k2, ssk, *pattern* to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Row 13: k2, ssk, *pattern* to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2.
Row 15: k2, ssk, *pattern* to last 4 sts, k2tog, k2. (total 14 sts have been decrease, 7 on each side. This count includes the decrease from row 3-9)



Row 17: k2, *pattern*, k2
Row 18: as Row2
Total stitch count at this point is 52 (58, 58, 64) sts
At this point the bodice should measure about 3 (3, 3.75, 3.75) inches from the start of the Honeycomb pattern.

Row 19 (RS): k2, pattern next 12 sts, p2tog, knit next 22 (28, 28, 34) sts in 1x1 rib starting with knit stitch, pattern next 12 sts, k2
Row 21: k2, pattern next 12 sts, knit next 23 (29, 29, 35) sts in established 1x1 rib, pattern next 12 sts, k2
Row 23: k2, pattern next 12 sts, k2, bind off purl wise 19 (25, 25, 31) sts, k2, pattern next 12 sts, k2
Row 24 (will be starting to knit right shoulder strap over 16 sts): k2, purl purls and knit knits, k2
Work those 16 sts (don't forget to always knit first 2 sts and last 2 sts) till the armhole measures 4 (4.5, 5, 5.5) inches from the cast off underarm stitches.
Leave stitches on holder.
Left shoulder strap: with the wrong side facing, reattach yarn. And repeat as for the right shoulder strap starting with row 24.

Back: repeat as for the front piece.

At this point either sew shoulder straps together, graft, or do a 3-needle bind off (3 needle bind off is my preferred method).

Skirt:

Unravel waste yarn and pick up 124 (136, 148, 156) sts. Place marker and join in the round.
Knit next round and evenly increase 6 (4, 2, 4) sts so that the total number of stitches comes to 130 (140, 150, 160) sts.
The skirt will be divided into 10 sections, with each section containing 13 (14, 15, 16) sts.
The cable will be a part of each section. The cable motif is worked over 6 sts, so that there are 7 (8, 9, 10) sts between each cable.
Before starting cable work and knitting the skirt, MOVE MARKER 3 STS FORWARDS!

Now you are ready to start.

Rnd1-2 (set up rounds): *purl 7 (8, 9, 10) sts, knit 6*
Rnd 3: *purl 7 (8, 9, 10) sts, C3F 9knit 3, then knit 3 from holder)*
Rnd 4 (will also contain first increase): *pbf, purl 5 (6, 7, 8), pbf, knit 6* (20 sts increased)
Rnd 5-8: *purl 9 (10, 11, 12), knit 6*
Rnd 9: *purl 9 (10, 11, 12), C3B (k3, then 3 from holder)*
Rnd 10-14: *purl 9 (10, 11, 12), knit 6*

Repeat the increase round 2 more times. Each increase is at approximately 2 (2.5, 3, 4) inches intervals. Rnd4 is not going always be an increase round. If it is not an increase round, it is knitted as Rnds 5-8. There are total 3 sets of increases, each increasing the count by 20 sts (total 60 sts increased). If you want the skirt to be fuller, you can do more increases and space them more closely.

Repeat Rnds 3-14 till the skirt measures 5.5 (7, 8, 10) inches from the lower edge of 1x1 rib at the waist. The length here is given for the tunic length. You can easily adjust it to make it a vest or a dress as well. End with either Rnd 3 or 9 for Hemline Version1. End with either Rnd8 or Rnd 14 for Hemline Version2. And for the Hemline Version 3 end with either Rnd 4 or 10.

Hemline Version 1 (about 1.5 inches long):

The center of the ruffle will be the middle 2 sts of the 6 knitted stitches.

Rnd 1: purl 15 (16, 17, 18), yo, k2, yo, * purl 17 (18, 19, 20), yo, k2, yo* till 2 last sts, p2
Rnd 2: purl 15 (16, 17, 18), k4, * purl 17 (18, 19, 20), k4, * till 2 last sts, p2
Rnd 3: purl 15 (16, 17, 18), yo, k4, yo, * purl 17 (18, 19, 20), yo, k4, yo* till 2 last sts, p2
Rnd 4: purl 15 (16, 17, 18), k6, * purl 17 (18, 19, 20), k6, * till 2 last sts, p2
Rnd 5: purl 15 (16, 17, 18), yo, k6, yo, * purl 17 (18, 19, 20), yo, k6, yo* till 2 last sts, p2
Rnd 6: purl 15 (16, 17, 18), k8, * purl 17 (18, 19, 20), k8, * till 2 last sts, p2
Rnd 7: purl 15 (16, 17, 18), yo, k8, yo, * purl 17 (18, 19, 20), yo, k8, yo* till 2 last sts, p2
Rnd 8: purl 15 (16, 17, 18), k10, * purl 17 (18, 19, 20), k10, * till 2 last sts, p2
Rnd 9-10: as Rnd 8

If you are using 2 colors, then switch to contrast color at this point.
Knit one round
Purl next round.
Bind off loosely in knit wise manner.


Hemline version 2 (about 2 inches long):

Total number of stitches at this point should be 190 (200, 210, 220) sts unless you had more or less increase rounds while knitting skirt portion of the tunic/vest/dress.



Rnd 1: knit
Rnd 2: purl
Rnd 3: knit

Note: If you are using contrast color, then knit Rnds1-3 with it.

Rnd 4-6: *k1, p1*
Rnd 7: *k1, pbf*
Rnd 8-10: *k1, p2*
Rnd11: *k1, p1, pbf*
Rnd 12-13: *k1, p3*
Rnd14: Bind off in pattern.


Hemline version 3 (about 2 inches long):

Should have 190 (200, 210, 220) sts at this point (only if you have done 3 sets of increases).
Rnd 1: Knit (if you want to use another color as a highlight, switch to it and knit this round with contrast color)
Rnd 2: Purl
Rnd 3: Knit (if you are using contrast color, then you are knitting this round with main color), and evenly increase what would be each section between cables by 5 (4, 7, 6) sts.(240, 240, 280, 280 sts)

Note: If you have done fewer or more increases than 3 sets, then make sure when you do increases mentioned in Rnd3, the total number of stitches in the section that would be between cables should be a multiple of 6 and more than you have started with at the beginning of the round (ie don't decrease stitches, but rather increase them)

Rnd 4: k1, p4, *k2, p4* to last 7 sts, then k2, p4, k1
Rnd 5-13: Start working honeycomb pattern from Rnd11 and finish with Rnd 6.
Rnd 14: knit (if you are working with contrast color, then knit this round with it and all the following rounds too).
Rnd15: purl
Rnd16: knit
Rnd 17: Bind off purl wise.


Weave in any ends. Sew on buttons or do embroidery. Block. Done. Take pictures!

Simple Beanie aka Lollipop Hat

I am in the mood for knitting hats. Maybe it is because i just bought a whole bunch of yummy super soft merino yarn in 10+ different colors. I have just finished a series of 7+2 hats, and still going.....
My daughter wanted hats in different colors (green is her favourite!), so hence the idea. I wanted a pattern that is easily customizable to create different looks. I am gonna give simple instructions here as well as several of options i am personally knitting myself at the moment. I am sure there are million and one pattern for all kinds of beanies, but here i am creating one more.
My daughter calls all the hats i am making using this pattern Lollipop Hats ... hence the name...her names usually stick over mine.

All 3 hats are done. I just need to convince my daughter to model them all for pictures ... kind of hard to do when it is still 23 C outside. Hmmm...managed to get 2 hats on her so far.

Materials:

1 ball of any dk wool yarn as your main color (125 yards per ball)
Plus about 20 yards of other different colors you want to introduce into the hat. One ball of main color alone will be sufficient on its own to finish the hat.
4 mm circular needles (40 cm length)
A set of 4 mm double pointed needles.
Stitch marker

Sizes:

6-12 months
1-3T
3-5T

Gauge: 22 sts per 4 inches in stockinette stitch

Abbreviations:

k2tog=knit 2 stitches together
ssk= slip one stitch, knit the following stitch, pass the sliped stitch over.

Basic Method:

Cast on 65 (75, 85) sts.
Join in the round and knit 8 rnds
Next round increase one stitch every 13 (15, 17) sts. Total number of stitches 70 (80, 90).
Knit till the the hat measures 4 (4.5, 5) inches from the rolled up rim or 5 (5.5, 6) inches from the cast on edge.

Crown shaping:

Rnd 1: *ssk, knit 6, k2tog* to the end of the round (56, 64, 72 sts)
Rnd 2-5: knit
Rnd 6: *ssk, knit 4, k2tog* to the end of the round (42, 48, 54 sts)
Rnd 7-9: knit
Rnd 10: *ssk, knit 2, k2tog* to the end of the round (28, 32, 36 sts)
Rnd 11-12: knit
Rnd 13: *ssk, k2tog* to the end of the round (14, 16, 18 sts)
Rnd 14: knit
Rnd 15: k2tog to the end of the round (7, 8, 9 sts)
Break yarn, thread through remaining stitches, fasten off. If you want to put a pom pom on top, then leave about 10 inch tail.

Weave in any loose ends.

Option 1 (multiple colors):

Using main color, work to the 5 sts increase round as in the basic method.
Work one more round in main color.
Then knit 2-3 rnds in any colors you want.
Shape crown as in the basic method.
Sigh...time to weave in all the loose ends.
I have used 8 colors.
This is how stripes are organized here on the picture: 8 rnds, 6 rnds, 4 rnds, 3 rnds, 3 rnds, 3 rnds, 6 rnds, 4 rnds, 3 rnds, 3 rnds, 3 rnds, 6 rnds, 4 rnds, 4 rnds.


Option 2 (2 colors):

Using color A, cast on 90 (100, 110) sts.
Knit for 4 rnds.
Next round * knit 7 (8, 9), k2tog* to the end of the round. Total number of stitches 80 (90, 100).
Knit 2 rnds.
Next round *knit 6 (7, 8), k2tog* to the end of the round. Total number of stitches 70 (80, 90).
Knit next 3 rounds.
Switch to color B, k2tog, knit in seed stitch to the end of the round (69, 79, 89 sts). We are decreasing here by 1 st to create odd number of stitches for the smooth flow of seed stitch pattern.

Seed stitch:
Rnd 1: k1, p1
Rnd2: p1, k1

Knit next 8 rnds in seed stitch.
Switch to color A, and make 1 sts by knitting into the front and back of a stitch (ie we are bringing up stitch count to even number 70, 80, 90), then knit to the end of the round.
Next round:purl
Continue in garter stitch for 6 more rnds.
Switch to color B and knit the rest of the beanie as in the basic pattern.
Once done attach some kind of a decorative button to the garter stitch.


Option 3 (3 colors):

Using main color, work to the the 5 sts increase round.
Work one more round in main color.
With color A knit 5 rnds.
Then main color for 8 rnds.
With color B knit 5 rnds.
Then main color 8 rnds.
And so on....
I am putting pom pom on top just cause i find pom poms to be very cute.

Shades of Summer Dress

Materials:
2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3 balls of dk cotton yarn in color A (about 110 yards per ball)
1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 5 balls of dk cotton yarn in color B (about 140 yards per ball)
3.5 mm circular needles (60 cm, and 80 cm)
4.0 mm circular needles (40 cm)
6 stitch markers
a few decorative buttons (optional)

This dress here is shown in size 3-4T. Color A yarn used is Silkience from Ella Rae, and color B is Cotton Joy (#706) formerly distributed by Needful yarns and at present can be obtained from Diamond yarns. The dress measures 17 inches from the underarm.

Abbreviations:

k=knit
p=purl
kfb= knit into the front and back of the stitch, thus increasing the stitch number by one
make1= knit into the stitch below of the next stitch on left hand needle, thus increasing the number of stitches by one

Gauge: 23 sts per 4 inches (skirt) and 21 sts per 4 inches (bodice)

Note on gauge and yarn:
Bodice gauge is most important. The pattern was designed with cotton yarn in mind. I have taken into the account the stretchiness of cotton, thus 2 inches of negative ease are in the design of the bodice. If however, you want to knit your project in wool, i would recommend to go up a size.

Sizes available:

3-6 months (13-15 "),
6-12 months (15-16"),
1-2T (17-19"),
2-3T (18-20"),
3-4T (20-22"),
4-5T (22-24"),
5-6T (23-25")

Method:

Bodice:

The bodice is worked in seed stitch. It is knitted in 4 sections with odd number of stitches in each one.

Seed stitch:
Rnd1: k1, p1
Rnd2:p1, k1

Cast on 60 (68, 76, 84, 92, 100, 108) sts.
Join in the round, and purl first round, placing markers every 15(17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27) sts.
Knit next round and start raglan increases.

Raglan increase: from the beginning of the round, k1, kfb, knit to 2 sts before next marker, kfb, k1, pass marker, k1, kfb, knit....and so on (ie you will always knit one stitch after and before each marker, and will work an increase into the second stitch after each marker and a stitch before the last stich before each marker). Each round of raglan increase will increase the total number of stitches by 8.

Rnd3: purl
Rnd4: knit and do an increase
Rnd5: purl
Rnd6: start the seed stitch and increase
Rnd7: seed stitch

Repeat Rnds 6&7 till you have 29 (31, 33, 35, 37, 41, 45) sts in each section.
Two of the sections ae going to form sleeves/armholes, and the other two are going to be front and back of the bodice.
Work the next icrease round as in Rnd 6.
Following round:
Section 1&3: purl
Section 2&4: seed stitch
Repeat last 2 rounds 1 more time for sizes 3-6 months and 6-12 months; and 2 more times for all the other seizes. At this point each section should have 33 (35, 39, 41, 43, 47, 51) sts.
Next round: bind off purl wise section 1&3, and seed stitch section 2&4.
Cast on 2 (3, 5, 8, 10, 10, 10) sts, seed stitch across 33 (35, 39, 41, 43, 47, 51) sts, cast on 3 (4, 6, 9, 11, 11, 11) sts, then seed stitch across next set of 33 (35, 39, 41, 43, 47, 51) sts. That will join everything in the round. And it is not a typo to have different stitches for each underarm. This is done so that you can keep the seed stitch pattern going, which does require odd number of stitches. So you should have 71 (77, 89, 99, 107, 115, 123) sts total at this point.
Knit the bodice in seed stitch for about 1.5 inches (size 3-6 months and 6-12 months), 2 inches for (size 1-2T, 2-3T, and 3-4T), and 2.5 inches for all other sizes.
The following rounds are worked as follows:
Rnd 1: purl
Rnd 2: knit
Rnd 3: purl
Rnd 4: knit and evenly increase by 1 (1, 1, 3, 1, 5, 3) sts.
Total number of stitches 72 (78, 90, 102, 108, 120, 126).
Rnd 5: knit
Rnd 6: knit
Rnd 7: purl
Rnd 8: knit
Rnd 9: purl

Note: Rnds 4-6 is the place where you can sew on decorative buttons (as i have done), sew on beads, or introduce eyelets for a ribbon.

Skirt:

Switch to color B, knit the following round and place markers every 12 (13, 15, 17, 18, 20, 21)) sts. This will divide the dress into 6 segments.
Knit next 2 rounds.
The following round is an increase round. Increase one stitch on either side of each marker (ie 12 sts increased). My favorite method of increasing is to knit into the stitch below of the next stitch on the left needle. I like this method because it creates less visible increases. You can use any other method you like.
Knit 7 rounds.
8th round is always an increase round. Continue knitting in the following manner till the dress measures the desired length minus 3 inches (2 inches in case of sizes 3-6 months and 6-12 months). And just to give you an idea, the smallest size i have made measured 10 inches at this point and the largest one measured 17 inches.
Once the dress is that length, switch back to color A and
Rnd 1: purl
Rnd 2: knit
Rnd 3: purl
Rnd 4: knit
Rnd 5: purl
Switch to color B and knit one round.
Next round, knit into front and back of every stitch. This will double the number of stitches on your needle.
Knit each round for ~2.5 inches (and 1.5 inches for 2 smallest sizes)
Switch to color A and knit one round.
Do the next 4 rounds in garter stitch (ie purl a round, knit a round, purl a round, knit a round). Then bind off purl wise.

Weave in any lose ends.
You can leave the dress as is at this point or sew on any decorative buttons or applications.